Monday, 28 January 2013

Stepping it up a bit now

Climbing 'Malsonando', Gandia.

During the week in Spain I have been doing some 7b and 7cs onsight just to get into the flow of climbing again, but I was also keen to see just how far away from recovering my form on harder routes. So I tried an 8c called Malsonando at Gandia.

I had no idea how I’d get on. Before coming out, since starting climbing again I’ve had 6 weeks or so of some indoor climbing and started from a very low base of fitness and very gentle climbing on easy ground at first. I did manage to climb the 8a endurance circuits in TCA Glasgow and in the past I’ve found that if I can do 8a indoors I can usually do 8c or even 8c+ outdoors. Folk sometimes find that weird and don’t understand it. Partly it’s because my hands sweat quite a lot and so climbing outside in cold conditions allows me to climb a lot harder. However, the main reason is I’m not that strong and so struggle more indoors where I can rely on technique more outdoors.

Anyway, the rule held true and yesterday I was able to climb Malsonando in pretty bad conditions which I was very happy with. My endurance is still barely off the baseline level and I got quite pumped well before the crux, but it’s definitely a good place to be 2.5 months after the surgeon was drilling into my Talus.

Today was good too, an 8b first redpoint, another 8a and a 7c+ onsight.

On the way home from the crag, I began to think that I could start to set some firmer climbing ambitions for the coming year now. 


  1. Dave, I'm sitting here feeling a bit sore after an arthroscopy today (linked to an unforunate incident in Font). As ever, you're an inspiration mate! Stay well.

  2. You are my hero! You are so inspirational.

  3. Keep the recovery updates coming and get well soon! I am a big fan of your "9 out of 10" book and it has influenced my climbing greatly for the better. Looking forward to you being back to 100%.

  4. Well done Dave. I visited Gandia only once in 2008, nice crag, very sunny so good for winter time.

  5. Your a beast! I hope for your continued progress.